No, not me, though sometimes I do marvel where the years have gone. I mean our neighbor, Notre Dame de Paris, the iconic cathedral that is marking its 850th anniversary in 2013.
For the special anniversary, they have erected a temporary structure and viewing stands that take up much of the square, finished just in time for the Christmas mass I failed to attend. I have to admit I think "Our Lady" looks much better without this structure, but at least it will not endure the centuries (and not even 850 days: planned obsolescence in Nov 2013).
The photos from this angle can only be taken while the stadium seats are up for the anniversary.
It's hard to imagine what an imposing sight this must have been 850 years ago, when everything surrounding it was medieval Paris -- wooden shacks, narrow roads covered in horse (and human) dung, rats scurrying about, town criers ringing out their bells chanting "Bring out your dead!" When it was built, it would have certainly been the tallest structure any of these people had ever seen, with its cathedral towers soaring over the city.
And while Paris may not be the center of the universe, but it is -- officially -- the center of Paris. This bronze star, with the words "Point Zero des Routes de Paris" (Point Zero of routes to Paris), is located just in front of Notre Dame. Ironically, the plaque is just off-center of the cathedral.
The building is decorated with chimeras and the better-known gargoyles, which serve two purposes: as rain gutters and to scare the medieval citizens below into submitting to the church. The best way to see the gargoyles may well be at night, on the side of the cathedral that fronts rue de Cloitre de Notre Dame. Very spooky.
The best way to see the chimeras, however, is from the bell towers, legendary home of Quasimodo. The view from here is decidedly not medieval -- modern building and the Eiffel Tower in the background. We can even see our own apartment from here, though you'd have to know our building very well and have an eagle eye to figure it out. The spire with the verdigris statues -- and the chimeras themselves -- didn't get added to the cathedral till the restoration from 1845-1860.
The side fronting the Seine contains one of the famous rose windows, and since it is the south side, and open to the gardens and Seine, it's the one that best highlights the stained glass. The window stands nearly 13m (42ft) high and is said to be comprised of hundreds of thousands of pieces of glass. I don't know exactly; I haven't counted. I think this is also the side that best shows off the ornate, intricate Gothic architecture, especially when it looked like a frosted confection.
And from across the Seine...
Then there's my favorite side, the back with its flying buttresses. Even before this garden became our front yard (so much so that for the first six months here, Pippa called this place "Ma Dame" -- meaning "My Lady") and the girls' regular little playground, this view has always been my favorite. To me, this is a work of art, a masterpiece, in any lighting, any season.
On the inside, the south rose window isn't the only thing glowing. Anyone who's spent time inside Catholic churches will immediately recognize the smell of the burning votive candles. It is, in the truest sense of the word, awesome. Somehow it seems bigger on the inside than the outside.
In 850 years, I'm sure a lot has happened in the shadows of Notre Dame cathedral. Just in the 15 months we've lived here, for instance, we've seen accordianists, newlyweds, marching bands, military guards, some mighty fine roller blading (our daughters), and some mighty awful fake 'staches (our nephews).
Mark your calendars: We'll see you back here to celebrate her next 850th anniversary in the year 2863.
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