Friday, February 17, 2012

My Husband's French Mistress

Not too long ago, we are all sitting at the table for a family dinner when Anthony announces very calmly, "I've been interviewing for a French mistress."

Hmm. Equally calmly -- we are, after all, discussing this in front of the children -- I finish chewing my bite. We have been married over twelve years and, like any married couple, we've had our ups and downs, but I certainly didn't think it had come to this. It seems rather coldly systematic -- you might even say sangfroid -- of him: Is he doing this because this is what is expected of a man in France? Has he been collecting resumés? Is previous experience necessary? What, exactly, are these women putting as their mission statements? 

The phrase echos in the room, and by the time I put down my fork, Anthony realizes what he has said. "I mean, I've been interviewing for a French maîtresse," he laughs. Maîtresse, of course, means teacher. Ah yes, Anthony is going to get some French language lessons as part of his Ubisoft affairesAffaires, of course, meaning business. Très bien. Now that we are all clear about my husband's unblemished fidelity record, it's time to discuss faux amis, which literally means "false friends." These are not the women who become your husband's secret mistress but are nice to your face, though certainly they would also qualify as false friends. Rather, a faux ami is a grammatical term for a word that seems like it would mean the same thing in two languages but doesn't. And oh, how it doesn't.

 
Here is an example of a faux ami:



No, this is not where you get tampons and gifts (cadeaux). Nor is it where you go to buy tampons as gifts. Rather, it is a little stationery store in Normandy where you might go to buy stamps (tampons) and gifts (cadeaux). Got it?

French and English share enough vocabulary that my back-up plan is always this: If I don't know the French word, I just say the English word with a French accent. It works wonderfully quite often: libéral, synthétique, qualité, indépendance, commisération.

But then you mention a costume d'Halloween, and it leads to a very confusing five minute discussion until you establish that "costume" is the word for business suit (and wearing one would, indeed, feel very much like dressing up in a costume at this point in Anthony's every-day-is-casual-Friday techie career). "Déguisement" is what they use to refer to something a child would use to play dress-up/pretend.

A recent online headline asks about a French Top Chef contestant, "Ruben, est-il toujours en lice?" I know that "lice" is "poux," but it still looks to me like they are asking if Ruben is "in lice." When I look it up, my eye immediately catches the third definition for the French word "lice," which is "hound-bitch." Excellent! But the phrase "en lice" really means "on the list" or, more colloquially, "in the running."

The word "râ" means "grated" (as in grated carrots) and "grosse" means "big." And here's a poster for the new movie, "La Taupe," which is not about a paint color but rather "The Mole."


Let us not forget the ubiquitious librairies, which are not libraries at all, but rather book stores, as opposed to bibliothèques, which are what we call libraries. I recently conducted a Princeton interview for a girl who is arguably one of the top high school students in all of France (valedictorian at the most famous, selective, competitive high school) and whose English was so incredible, she used the word "polemic" in regular conversation and had the perspicacity to use the word "perspicacity" correctly. Yet even she got confused when she wanted to talk about a library in English.

When my sister was in a museum here as an exchange student in high school, she once asked to see the exhibition, not realizing that an exhibition is an "exposition" in French, and that the French word "exhibition" is used in the sense English-speakers would say "exhibitionist...."

My own worst experience with a faux ami was when I was here in college as an exchange camp counselor. I was talking with a Frenchman who was very curious about American bread. So I explained that we generally bought bread at the supermarket (gasp!), and that it came pre-cut in plastic bags (quel horreur!), and that is was usually made with préservatifs. At which point he laughed uproariously and said, "Donc, tu mange le pain et poof! pas de bébés." "So, you eat the bread and poof! no babies." After a few frantic minutes looking in my dictionary, I learned that "préservatifs" are condoms. Preservatives, on the other hand, are "agents conservateurs."  That would be conserving agents, not conservative agents.


By the way: on the vending machine above, the words below the blue triangle are near faux amis and do not mean "tire" and "relax" (both of which would be fine pieces of advice at the point of condom sales) but rather "pull" and "release" (both of which would also be fine pieces of advice at the point of condom sales but in this case refer to how you get the condoms out of the machine).

Then there is the word "fèces" which is a rare double faux ami. That is to say, it is a faux ami in written form: The girls are often told to sit on their fèces, and even that they have adorable fèces, since fèces means "bottom" or "tush." It is such an acceptable term that teachers regularly use it in class. It is also a faux ami in spoken form, however, since it is pronounced "fess" -- which is just how French people pronounce our word "face" when they are trying to say it in English. Je vais me laver le fess dans la douche is a double whammy in a conversation with French-and-English speakers in that it means "I am going to wash my butt-or-face-we're-not-sure-which-language-we're-using in the shower (which is douche)."

Besides talking about their fèces, the girls' teachers have also called them rètardaires a couple times, rètardaires meaning "people who are late." So many words, so many ways to get in trouble.

In closing, I just want to let you know that Anthony has, indeed, selected his French maîtresse. Her name is Caroline, and he tells me she is very, very good...





Tuesday, February 14, 2012

Too Gallic, Too Phallic

Yes, it is possible for the notoriously sexual French to go too far, even for French taste. There has been an uproar in France that the posters for the new film, Les Infidèles (The Unfaithful) starring Jean duJardin, have gone too far. This one was deemed too misogynistic and is -- theoretically at least -- being pulled from the kiosks and bus stops around the country.


The tagline in the poster above says "I'm going in to the meeting." It is has been replaced by posters such as these. Why, they're so "prudish," they're downright American!


The posters may soon be down, but there's no eliminating the very Gallic and Phallic nature of Paris. And so, I leave you with the following photo to ponder (taken from the Place de la Concorde: lampposts, Eiffel Tower in distance, and Obelisque):





Monday, February 13, 2012

India, a French Colony

As you may or may not know, I am taking the girls to India in just a few days for a two week vacation. If you want to follow our adventures there, I'll be sending my "letters" via blog at www.FamilyGoesToIndia.blogspot.com.

In order to get our visas -- which were astronomically expensive: 360 (about $500) for the three of us -- I have to go the Indian visa outpost here in Paris. I must say, it is an absolute model of efficiency and tranquility, so I feel like at least $15 of that $500 is well spent. When I return to pick up my visas, I am standing at the front counter at the same time as an older French gentleman (I'm guessing around upper 70s or 80?) who is complaining that the change machine isn't working and wondering where he can make change for a 5 bill in order to make his necessary copies. I understand perfectly what is going on, so I make change for him, and he is so happy not to have to go out into the cold.

We happen to be leaving the facility at the same time, and he of course is extra friendly and warm to me. He tells me that he goes to southern India every year for a few weeks to volunteer in an orphanage. His wife doesn't join him much because she doesn't like the heat, though when it's 10-15°C below like this, I can't believe that hot summer weather doesn't sound great to everybody.  We have a long conversation about the poverty in India, and he tells me how many of the children at the orphanage -- most of them girls -- don't even have names. The reason he goes to southern India is that Pondicherry used to be a French colony, and is still francophone, as opposed to the more famous British colonial history and anglophone portion that we all know. I once had an Indian family attend my French preschool and when I asked what their motivation was, they explained it was due to their French colonial heritage, so I'm familiar with this history, but still find it a strange thought: French India.

It is small interactions like this that make me feel very lucky to speak French. Of course I've had lovely person-to-person moments in countries where I don't speak the language and either through sign language or their English, we muddle through. But because he is an older man and doesn't speak any English, my French is the only key to my helping him out and to our conversation.

Two more postings till India! I'm not sure how much internet access/time I'll have there, so I may have to play catch up when I can, or even once we return.

Friday, February 10, 2012

$2,000 Ridiculous Hat

When one wanders into the Bon Marché, one of the chicest department stores in all of Paris, in the 6th arrondissement, one of the swankest sections of the city, and one finds oneself in the hat section, one is trying on what are arguably some of the the priciest hats around. And when trying on hats, it is always good to go with a friend, in this case Jen who is visiting us from the States (and has officially given the thumbs-up to our guest room). Even better if the friend looks good in hats, because I must say, I don't.

Or, perhaps it's the hats I've chosen, like this winner of a headband-hat adorned with feathers.  I know that I look like a cross between a Stay-puft marshmallow man and a Playboy Bunny. I am the Play-puft Marshmunny. According to the price tag dangling down the side of my head, I go for a mere 300.

Jen finds some that are perfectly acceptable, even a bit cute:

 

And a few that are not. And yes, you'll notice the black flower headband falls in both categories. I find it patently (pardon the pun) ridiculous yet oddly wearable. Of course, if you've seen what my girls wear regularly in their hair -- headbands with very large, brightly colored flowers, that they've made themselves -- you will understand that my perspective has been warped.
 

Jen's friend Medley, also visiting Paris at the moment, looks like a natural in the fur hat section. She could easily pass for a French woman: elegant, classy, so neatly put together. Me, not so much:



 Help! I'm being eaten by a fuzzy Pacman!

Jen finds a truly unique knit headband with fur earmuffs attached. Here we see one earmuff. But wait one minute, she's laughing too hard to pose for the photo.


Another try. But still, laughing too hard to stand still.


And finally, able to hold back the tears and pose in her Princess Leia winter headgear as long as she makes "crazy eyes" and doesn't look at me directly.


For walking around the streets and looking less like an American in a ski hat, Jen does buy a warm beret. But not at the Bon Marché and, therefore, not at Bon Marché prices.


The word for hat in French is "chapeau." By coincidence, there's an old French expression meaning "Wow!" which is "Chapeau!" So, if you have been wondering why I would title this posting "$2,000 Ridiculous Hat," just take a look at this Chapeau! chapeau -- actually a headband-hat with stuff attached -- for 1495, or US$1,982.



And below, a headband-hat with stuff attached made for me by G, at age four. Perhaps I should dredge it out of storage and wear it, to the envy of all, on the streets of Paris? ("Ooh la la, she must be rich to be so chic. Just look at that Chapeau! chapeau.")



Jen and I enjoy ourselves tremendously in the hat section with much decoration but, obviously, not much decorum. So, it may be a while till I am allowed back into the Bon Marché.



Wednesday, February 8, 2012

When Fur-rance Fur-reezes

I think the title of this posting may say it all. The following photos were taken within about fifteen minutes of each other. This week, when it's dipping and staying well-below freezing, I could walk outside at any time and see multiple fur coats and hats. It's been a severe cold snap throughout the country, causing serious problems and even a death or two. The electricy consumption last night in France broke the all-time record, which was last set in Dec 2010, and the temperature has been 11°below (Celsius, that is, or around 12°F), 8° below, warming up to 3° below....

  

Walking the streets you see women (mostly of-a-certain-age) in their furs. Russian style furs, black furs, brown furs, real furs, fake furs, fur linings, fur accents, ermine furs, sable furs, mink furs (oh, who am I kidding. You know I don't know the different types of furs...). Perhaps many of them are handed down from previous generations, which is what I like to believe when I see them.

It's hard to tell from the tiny photos above, with the black coats. So you could take my word for it. Or you could look at the following photos, taken in a 10-minute-or-so span the following day:

 
 
Well, they can't all be inherited furs, because I see this display at the Bon Marché, one of the snazziest department stores in Paris. It's a PETA nightmare!

 
  

And they certainly can't all be real furs. You know that expression, "Fur isn't fashion; it's murder"?  Well, in this case, fur is most definitely the way to murder fashion. 400 for these fake furry purses:

 





Monday, February 6, 2012

Let It Snow!

A rare, though not unheard of, snowy day in Paris. We happen to have a friend visiting us from the States, it is Sunday morning, and we have no other plans. So what else could we possibly do but go see the Eiffel Tower in full winter glory?  And from many angles...



We make sure our walk takes us by Poilâne, one of the most famous bread bakeries in Paris (therefore, in France, and therefore, in the world). Even Poilâne has an Eiffel Tower. But theirs is dusted in flour, not snow. And yes, the bread is really that delicious. This is not white baguette territory: We're talking dark and nutty.


And of course, if snow is falling on the Eiffel Tower, the rest of Paris is turning white, too. The top two photos below are near the Eiffel Tower:
 

The Senat at the Jardins des Luxembourg with frozen fountain:

 
Below, the Louvre pyramid with its frozen pool. And the family behind Notre Dame (flying buttress alert!). As the thermometer dips below zero -- that is, -10° in Celsius, so about 14°F -- it feels really cold to us. We are all wearing ski mittens and long underwear, along with about five layers on top. And we still need to get out of the cold and pop in for a hot chocolate. Even though I grew up in very cold places (Rochester, NY and Minneapolis, MN) fourteen years in California and two years in the tropics before that (Hawaii and the Philippines) have made my blood all sluggish and lazy. Much like Paris traffic at rush hour, it simply does not want to circulate.